My favourite part of the Uzbekistan tour: lunch in a yurt in the Khorezmian desert, near Urgench. Then when the rest of the group climbed up to see the Topraq-Kala fort ruins, I stayed behind. No one else, except a camel which padded by ignoring me. A view for miles and miles of desert, piercing light, knife-like cold. Utter silence. Bliss.
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